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- Trouble with feeder and PLA - Ultimaker 3D printers - Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
It's don a couple of 1. As the photo also shows, the imprint is spiral, indicating a spiral twist to the PLA filament - until a tension point is reached, where the PLA filament returns to rest position and the process repeats itself, about every 20mm or so - and here's the rub, as best I can tell - the PLA filament is scarred in transition and the residual PLA begins to till the grooves of the hobbed bolt.
Ultimately i. I may be mistaken, but it appears that the fatal flaw is the use of a threaded bolt at the site where it is made hobbed. The way to test this is to use a bolt with blank stock at the crucial place - in fact, Ultimaker should supply such bolts or else refute my hypothesis, that the hobbed bolt is poorly designed and should be replaced with one made from blank stock.
Now you've got me going back to look at the markings on my filament in more detail. V3 is machined, and it wasn't a bolt in it's previous life. I'm afraid my 6 months of printing experience sides with Joergen on this. Glad it works for you. But, by holding the filament lightly, I have felt a 'jerk' which I presumed was the filament releasing tension.
So please tell me, what parameters have you varied and optimized at the hot end: temperature? You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community.
If you feel a sudden increase in resistance, then exchanging the Bowden tube might be a good idea. I recommend to set the feeder gauge to the minimum, then open the feeder case if you don't set the feeder to the minimum then good luck looking for the spring and other parts ;-. As stated in my original post, I have cleaned the knurled bolt with canned air. I'm not sure if "canned air" or "air duster" are terms used in your regional version of English, but the product I am referring to can be seen in this image.
The PLA was hand-pushed through the extruder core during execution of the hot pull cleaning method. I forgot to add that the Bowden tube appears undamaged. There are no crimps in the PTFE tubing and filament has no problems getting to the print head during the initial filament loading. If it has tons of retractions that could be the issue. Look at the part in layer view and check the "blue" checkbox to see travel moves - the lighter blue lines lilac?
If you have too many of those on the same spot of filament you will get the grinding you describe. If you have too many retractions on the same piece of filament you can grind it to dust.
You can tell cura to limit retractions to 10 per a given spot of filament. Do this by setting "maximum retration count" to 10 and "minimum extrusion distance" to your retraction distance 4. Maybe you should post how fast you are printing to see if you are going too fast things speed up on the second layer.
Please post. Sure thing. There are quite a few retractions. I assume this is a necessity when swapping cores for the breakaway. See attached image for retractions. I can't post the gcode due to NDA issues, but this image alone shouldn't violate that.
I decided to twiddle with the tensioner again and try to print. I'm on a deadline for this project, so I have to keep trying. Perhaps I will have done things the right way by adjusting the tension a bit or gave sacrifices to the correct unholy entity. In this image there are snips of the failed filament.
Clockwise from top left is: the ground down area that ended the run, a section from the middle of the remaining filament which appears to have had grinding issues, and the filament next to the final failure point which shows repeated grinding spots which support the sputtering look I observed. This image shows the state of the feeder when I removed the casing. The dust is from a single run, as it was cleaned prior to this attempt.
This method is useful to know. I used a large screwdriver to hold the gate open on the feeder rather than a WedgeBot which requires a printer to use.
I have some notes. DO NOT use the unassisted pulling method if you have had grinding issues. It makes them worse. The filament snaps off at the weak point created by the grinding.
This puts about 2 mm of filament sticking out of the PTFE tube to grab hold of with pliers. Pulling with that small amount of grip is impossible. When attempting to remove filament from a feeder with grinding issues, I recommend attempting to do an "assisted reverse" of the filament. To perform the assisted reverse, if it is not obvious from the name, you must: slightly increase the grip from the screw to account for the divot in the filament, then use the "Move" function on the printer to reverse the filament.
While that is occurring, apply a gentle pulling force to the filament near the reel. The goal is not to yank the filament free, just to get it out of the divot so the feeder can remove it properly. After you are out of the grindhole, reset your tensioner screw to the position you had set it at and let the go about the usual "Change" process. If your filament breaks off inside the PTFE tube, you should remove the PTFE tube from the print head pain in the ass and remove the filament from the head end.
This is not ideal. Disassembling the head for me is an awkward process. Who's bright idea was it to put his tall Ultimaker on top of a double tall Lack-rack where it is hard to get at from the top? As a result of the constant stream of plastic grind pushed up the tube as the feeder stops and starts having problems during a run, there is a new problem. On my latest attempt, the filament broke inside of the Bowden tube, but not because of any breakage I learned from in the first part of this post.
No amount of pliers, raw strength, or yelling could dislodge pull it out in the direction of the feeder. Indeed, when I took apart the print head and pulled the filament with pliers from the other end, it took a solid minute for it to budge.
After the filament was removed and after the swearing had subsided , I attempted to use canned air to blow the particles out. This time they would not budge. My theory is that static is building up inside the Bowden tube as the extra friction from the grinding occurs. I am ruling out humidity issues causing sticking inside the tube. The humidity in my shop is moderate currently. Additionally, I observed static problems at the extruder head.
This causes the filament to stick to the printer head and glob up. I used some wire to connect the metal extruder head to a metal desk and that temporarily relieves the up-and-sideways issue, but it does not fix the overall static issues.
Obviously I will be making attempts to better ground the machine. I have requested some help from the supplier.
More input and suggestions from the community are very welcome. When you clean out the feeder, did you also really clean off the knurled wheel? That thing can grab and build up filament parts and eventually make it very slick and not grab, but grind. When you notice it is grinding, are you making sure to pull any and all lengths of PLA out of the bowden tube that were ground down?
If not, the ground down parts create little flanges on even the most minor grindings that help add friction. I make sure to pull the filament all the way out of the bowden tube That will show you how much friction it creates because I have had to heave real hard sometimes to get it through until I see absolutely no more tooth marks on the filament. When you clean out the filament fluff, did you pull the bowden tube off and clean it out very well? Do so by taking a piece of tissue or paper towel and 'plunging' it through the tube with waste filament.
If that gets dragged into the bowden tube, it will help create friction. I have not observed any slickness when I brushed it off by hand. On your advice, I will find something with stiff bristles and give it a good once over. The filament leavings you describe in 3 may be a chief cause of the filament stuck in the Bowden tube described near the end of my diatribe informative and succinct post. On your recommendation in 4 , I will try plunging it.
I hope my rifle cleaning kit is a thin enough bore. Bristle it good. A bit of clean filament and tissue is sufficient. You would be surprised how tiny that hole through the tube really is.
When you load the filament, make sure it is not too far into the tube when it starts to feed. What will happen is that if it is too far into the tube, it will continue to slam that filament into the hot end faster than it can melt the plastic and create a small grinding.
THEN it will just cascade into grinding hell. This will happen on ALL filament. Take it from da clumsy noob It takes time since I have a busy schedule, but I finally got around to doing the suggestions kmanstudios. I have pictures and I will address the attempts. First, cleaning the Bowden tube was a difficult endeavor. That thing was tight. The print attempt afterwards had no changes.
I then made an upgrade. The swap was easy, and took no time. You can check out the tube I chose on Amazon at this link. The PTFE does seem to be much nicer to use. Filament glides through this tube like a hot knife through butter. The PFA tube had seen some stress from use, and the filament actually got stuck, without being damaged. This still did not fix my problems, but it does seem to be a worthwhile upgrade.
Second, cleaning the knurled wheel had no effect. I cleaned with a brass bristle brush. It did not produce much plastic when I cleaned it. Like I said, the only difference between those two photos is the application of air duster.
If there was plastic on the knurled wheel, we would see the red on the after picture. So now we are back to where we started. I'm still having problems. I thought the problem was fixed after the PTFE upgrade, because I got something to print with 0 issues. The settings on the printer were 0. So, I got ambitious and attempted a larger print.
This time with 0. But, it was an interesting failure. Glad it helped you. StefanF 2 Posted December 28, Create an account or sign in to comment You need to be a member in order to leave a comment Create an account Sign up for a new account in our community. Register a new account. Sign in Already have an account? Sign In Now. Go to topic listing. Our picks New here? Get ahead with a free onboarding course SandervG posted a topic in Official news , February 9, Hi, Often getting started is the most difficult part of any process.
A good start sets you up for success and saves you time and energy that could be spent elsewhere. They're ready for you on the Ultimaker Academy platform. All you need to do to gain access is to register your product to gain free access. Register your product here in just 60 seconds. Picked By SandervG , August 17, View All.
Sign In Sign Up. Nevertheless, I just read about the cardbox procedure with 50'C on the building plate for hrs ; or the hrs in an industrial oven. I don't see why such a difference. We have both so, I'll give it a try. Concerning the bowder coupler, I have never seen these 4 small metal blades, so I suppose I should look after them re-order. I have purchased 6 Ultimaker S5's for my workplace. We have found that if we put it in our filament dryer for a few hours, it will work pretty well.
Every now and then we observe it breaking within the Bowden tube. I highly recommend the PrintDry Pro series of filament dryers! We also vacuum seal the material in their plastic containers. They are not cheap but for the research printing we do, we feel it is worth it.
We are trying out the Ultimaker Breakaway material. We're still working on the ideal settings for it since some of the team find it difficult to remove. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy! Already have an account? Sign in here. SandervG posted a topic in Official news , February 9, Ultimaker S5 feeder problems and grinding. Share More sharing options Followers 3.
Recommended Posts. LePaul Posted February 20, I've reached out to Support and hopeful they can offer some advice I haven't thought of. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options SandervG 1, Posted February 20, Picture coming. More testing. Dim3nsioneer Posted February 20, If not done already, check if the Bowden tube is mounted the correct way round. LePaul Posted February 21, I've been working with Erin over to support on this.
I reloading the PVA and it was trickling out of the hot end. Still working through some ideas. PVA is tricky With the cover off, we can see how it should work.
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